IT’S that time of the year again when everyone is looking forward to the Easter break and all of us are on the hunt for lekker vis deals to prepare a geharde pickled fish dite paired with some hot cross buns.
As the anticipation leads up to Good Friday, bakkies selling vis are seen parked along the busy roads with hawkers showing off their snoek, shouting, ‘Kom kyk mammie, hie’s lekker snoek,’ along with boards displaying the prices of their ‘catch’. All of this despite a scarcity van regte Kaapse snoek.
A recent study by Dr Sihle Mthethwa from the Department of Genetics in the Faculty of AgriSciences at the University of Stellenbosch highlights that snoek catches have declined noticeably as the species is now more vulnerable than ever.
The study by Mthethwa suggests ways to address this by analysing the fish’s genetic makeup.
After having collected samples from multiple regions across the Southern Hemisphere, including South Africa, New Zealand, Chile, and remote islands, Mthethwa used molecular tools to analyse their DNA to understand the evolutionary history, long-term population patterns, recent gene flow and population structure of snoek.
He also compared samples from South Africa across different time periods.
Mthethwa explained: “There is also evidence of a recent genetic bottleneck, meaning genetic diversity and numbers have declined in recent generations. This loss of diversity can make the species less able to cope with environmental change and fishing pressure.”
Mthethwa points out that Cape snoek catches were relatively stable historically, but have declined noticeably in recent years. As a result, local supply has become unreliable, increasing dependence on New Zealand-imported barracouta (the same species), that is often sold as ‘Cape snoek’.
He added that the drop in catches raises concerns about overfishing, loss of genetic diversity, and the long-term sustainability of local populations.
It also threatens the income and food security of communities that rely on the native fishery.
The Daily Voice went behind the scenes and spoke to some hawkers who sell fish to find out how they feel about the decline and if they are able to meet supply and demand.
Arthur Martinus, 77, from Bishop Lavis said he is used to the snoek disappearing as he has been in the business since the age of eight years old.
He stands with his white bakkie along the Stellenbosch Arterial and sells snoek at R120, soutvis and watermelon.
Arthur said he takes long drives - sometimes for up to 16 hours a day to Hondeklip Bay and Gansbaai to get the best for his customers. But because he has been in the business for years, he already built stable connections who call him when the boat arrives with fresh snoek.
He wysed: “I did not grow up with my parents and had to put my feet under other people’s table and that is where I learned the trade.
“I did not attend school because this is all I know is selling fish. This is a game where you win some and lose some.
“I travel far, I drive with my bakkie far to get snoek but what happens is, I would laai my bakkie but by the time we get back to Cape Town then half of the fish is pap then I have to make soutvis.
“There are times when the snoek bite and there are times when they don’t. If there is food for the fish, then they will stay, but if there isn’t food then he will go look for food.
“Sometimes I have to drive around to the factories for fish to please the customers, but sometimes they will call me to say the boat is coming at a certain time, then at midnight I must gooi.
“There are times when I make a profit, but God bless me, you have to know how to work with people and not be greedy because God will punish you.
“I enjoy what I do, I have been on the same spot for years when the Stellenbosch Arterial was a single road. Back then I used to sell three or four snoeke for R10.”
Deacon Claasen has been a hawker for about six years with two bakkies along Viking Way in Epping, selling snoek and yellowtail for R250, R270 and R280.
Claasen said: “We are aware of the shortage of snoek, every year the fish is gone, so we struggle to get a few fish.
“That is why fish is so expensive. This happens throughout the year because the fish gets imported and exported then we get the leftovers. It makes us swak.
“We will be able to meet the Easter demand and people don’t complain because they know the vis is skaa’s.
“As a hawker, if you want to make sure you get fish then you need to be on the road around 4am already to buy the fish fresh from the boat.”
An aunty from Ravensmead said she is serving two types of fish for her family this Easter and ha vis is kla ingelê.
She wysed: “I paid R380 for Angel fish and R220 for snoek. I already made my pickled fish. The fish is expensive but what can we do? Pickled fish is part of our Easter tradition and it’s one of my favourites.”